C-notching the frame

After receiving the wheel adapters/spacers, I decided that I needed to raise the rear mounts of the cougar sub-frame up 1.5 inches. I never knew how high the rear differential should be off of the ground, but I found some useful information that stated the sway bar should be parallel to the ground where it hooks up to the sway bar end link. With my body at proper ride height and the wheels sitting on the ground, the sway bar was pointed up at the end, this told me that the rear differential was sitting too close to the ground.

To find the magical 1.5 inch raise, I just raised the body with a jack, which raised the rear differential and increased my wheel well opening. When the sway bar was parallel to the ground, I measured my new wheel well clearance and subtracted my desired wheel well clearance… which gave me 1.5 inches.

I know I could just shorten the sway bar links to make the sway bar parallel and to give it a stock ride, but I wanted as much clearance between the differential and the ground that I could have, and plus it would help hide the front IRS mounts better. They were, oddly enough, sticking 1.5 inches below the rocker panel… which was bugging me. Raising the IRS assembly will also decrease the length of the front mounts that I will need to build, so I see it as a plus in all areas.

I only have one side half way finished. I still need to finish boxing in the whole frame, grind a little on my welds, and put a sheet of steel on the outside to help ensure its strength.

(Click on pictures to enlarge)

The notch is marked Outer frame is removed. Frame is notched out Angle iron in my chop saw
Chop saw in action Positioning angle iron to weld Positioning angle iron to weld Half done with one side.
Still dirty, even though I wore a face mask and goggles